Chausath Yogini Temples are quite unique. From the odd circular shapes with Yoginis carved all around the circle to the missing ceiling, these temples pique the interest of any temple architecture student. It was a long wait for me to attend the first of five Chausath Yogini temples. Two of them are in Odisha and three in Madhya Pradesh. However, I did come upon another one – a damaged but active temple at Jirapur, near Mandu. So that brings the overall number of such temples to six.
History of the Hirapur Chausath Yogini Temple
Temple researchers estimate that this temple was built between the 8th and 10th centuries CE. The temple has been used by the local locals. However, the Odisha State Museum’s Kedarnath Mahapatra discovered it in 1953. Since then, it has been under ASI. The temple, in my opinion, has always been a place of practice.
It is thought to have been built by Queen Hiradevi of the Bhauma dynasty, which produced numerous queen rulers. In fact, the village that houses this temple is named Hirapur after the Queen. The temple is locally known as Mahamaya Temple, after the principal deity. It’s difficult to say if the queen followed the Yogini Path or built the shrine for the followers. Kalapahad, a converted Muslim general from the 16th century CE, is thought to have also invaded this temple and destroyed the Murtis. He is well-known as the demolition of Puri and Konark temples.
Yoginis are goddesses or demi-goddesses revered in Tantric rituals. Their temples are typically filled by a group of 64 yoginis, however there have been reports of groups of 42 and 81 yoginis in other temples. Yoginis are sometimes pictured as chakras, which may explain why their temples are designed in the shape of a chakra or a wheel. Each yogini sits on a spoke of the wheel. The list of Yoginis varies by temple. Every one of them has a name that we recognize, yet no two temples have the same list.
This indicates that the choice of yoginis for a temple was influenced by local factors. Some are generous, while others are aggressive. Each of them has specific abilities, and you worship the one who can grant your request, which could range from having a kid to eliminating an adversary. The techniques are kept secret and are only revealed to those who have been initiated on the path. However, I was told at this temple that Chandi Path, also known as Devi Mahatmya, is predominantly used for goddess worship. Yoginis are not Sapta Matrikas, Dash Mahavidyas, or Nav Durgas. They are a group of demi-goddesses who always dwell and work together.
It is constructed of native sandstone, with Murtis in black granite. Yogini temples are unlike any other temples in terms of architecture. They are small, contained, focused, and intended for a small group of followers. So, while it is in Odisha, we cannot legitimately call it Kalingan architecture. It is a distinct category. Surya Pitha, also known as the Sun platform, is located in front of the temple and faces east. The Sadhaks, or devotees, used this to worship the sun.
Remember, Konark Sun Temple is not far away, and sun worship must have been common here. Looking at it from the top, the shape resembles that of a female Yoni. It can also resemble a wheel with sixty spokes. The entrance to the temple is low and narrow. You had to bend to enter. One person can enter comfortably at a time. Jai and Vijay, the doorkeepers or Dwarpalas, are sculpted on the outside walls of the entrance. Sculptures of Kaal and Vikaal line the sides of the narrow entrance leading inside the temple.
Once inside, the temple truly opens up. You can see the wide sky above the round, not-so-high wall. What stands out are the yoginis in black granite, set neatly in a row of temple-shaped niches. To begin with, they all appear similar, but as your eyes adjust, you notice differences in their postures and mounts. Each one stands around 2 feet tall on a distinct element. Many Murtis are broken.